
PRINCIPAL AMERICAN OFFICE, 

1229 Wabash Avenue, 

OHICAGO. TA 



*■ 



Cornwell's Purchasing Agency 



We still continue our long established purchasing agenc; 
furnish any article advertised in any catalogue or paper at schedu] 
|jrice. Only mention the price list from which you order, ^enidh 
a specialty of Cloaks and. Millinery. We flatter ourselves vs 
can save 25 per cent, for our customers on a purchase. Money mui 
accompany the order, or, we will forward goods C. O. D. whe 
part pay is advanced. 




Scale Guide for Cutting Trimmings. 
Sent by mail on receipt of 25 cents. 

Per dozen, $1. 



&> 




IMPROVED TRACING WHEEL 
Silver Plated, No. 10. 

Each 50 cents. 
By the dozen $4.00; % dozen $2.25. 
The Double Tracing Wheel same price as 
above. 




BERLIN TRACING WHEEL. 

Each, 25, 30, and 40 cents. 
By the dozen, $2.00, $2.50, and $? 



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TT 520 

C82 >B^^:^v r K^rvIv , » 

Copy l «J%£? 



SHING^ 



Instruction Book, 



FOR LEARNING THEIR 

IMPROVED SELF-FITTING 



FOR, CUTTING 

Ladies', Misses' and Children's 
fc DRESSES, 

Cloaks, Basques, Dolmans, Postillions, 



And Many Other TJseful Garments. 

— y 

WILLETT CORNWELL 



,0 



1229 Wabash Ave., - - CHICAGO, 

COPYRIGHT 1888, BY WILLETT CORNWELL. 



^W.V.V.V.VA%V.VA%X\V.VX%V.V^^ 



* -fifty * 

TO OUR CHART PURCHASERS. 



The lady pr esenting this new Instruction 
Book is most likely recorded in our list of special 
agents. Therefore we trust sbe may fully maintain the 
position, being ever ready to impart good instructions 
to her Scholars in the u^e of our Self fitting Sybtems of 
cutting. 



May we not hope that? you will assist in 



getting scholars for our agent by handing out this bonk 
and helping in a friendly manner, that many sales may 
be made in your vicinity? For we are proud to ao 



knowledge that it is by the assistance of just such en. 



ergetic ladies as you that we meet with such success in 



selling to the leading Dressmakers our well merited Sys- 
tem of Dress Cutting. 



Schofars will find it of great impor tance to 

mak e good use of the agent's time while with the m, by 
gaining a thorough knowledge of cutting, for the puF- 
ehaser will soon find that her time and money is well 



spent for a System so perfect and sold so cheaply when 



compared with worthless methods which often bring $2<) 



Dressmakers Having* Apprentices to supply 
with Systems can procure them at wholesale of our 
agent who is expected to supply them at reduced rates 
The agent may appoint sub -agents aud supply them 
in like manner, whpneve it appears expedient. 

The Agent will find this Instruction Book 
of great value in making sales We advise the free 
distribution of them and will freely snd them in abun- 
dance for that purpose when sent for. 



Yours most respectfully, 
WILI/ETT CORNWELL, 
1229 WABASH AVENUE, - - CHICAGO 

* -►£ 



* * 

I Full Directions How to Use 

CORNWELL'S IMPROVED 

$pem of Dft$ Cutting and 

SLEEVE SYSTEM 

In the making up of the many useful garments herein described. 
Carefully Observe th* Following : 

Take the Measurements of the person (see 
cut of measurements) and set them down on paper like 
the following — these represent an ordinary sized person : 



Length of Waist 8 

Length of front Waist. 18 
Length of back Waist . 16 

Length of Sleeve 22 

Length. Skir s ~* front. 41 
Length Skirt at back . . 42 



Bust measure 38 

Waist measure 2^ 

Taper measure the dif--^ 

f erence for Darts .... 
Hollow of Shoulder ... .3^ 
Size of Neck 13>£ 

For long or Short Shoulders for dress see 7th direction. 

1st. Bast Measure. — Stand at the back of the 
person, pass the tape measure under the arms and bring 
around loosely over the largest part of the bust — well 
supplied with artificial fullness if any is intended to be 
worn. 

Sd. Waist Measure.— Take snug around the 
waist about 8 inches below the arms. 

3d. liengtli of Waist— Measure with tape line 
on the side seam, from the arm hole downward. 

4 i:li. JSho aider Measare to Hollow.— 
Place tape at the top of the band at the side of neck and 
measure down on top of shoulder to the hollow — this 
hollow is easily found by slightly raising the arm. 

5th. Taper Measure for Darts.— Subtract 
waist measure from bust measure and the difference 
will be the taper number to be used in Dart Scale " M." 

6th. Extra Waist Measures. — Find the 
length from the shoulder seam at the side of neck down 
in front to the waist line, and the length from the neck 
band down the back to the waist line. This PROVES 
the length of the waist. 

►£ — »I< 



Igl , 

4 CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting. 

[Directions Continued.] 

7th. To Regulate the Length of Shoul- 
der of Dress, take measure from bottom of neck 
band down the shoulder seam the distance required. 

8th. Sleeve Measure.— Take from the back of 
arm hole down over the elbow to the wrist with arm 
bent. For full and complete directions see Sleeve System. 

9th. Xeck Measure.— Take the measure around 
the neck at the height you wish dress when completed. 
Trim out to suit the size and style desired. 

CUT THE FRONT WAIST FIRST. 

10th. For a Plain Waist with sleeves use a 
yard and one-quarter of good lining, which is usually 
40 inches wide; keep folded and pin together and 
lay it with selvage edge next to you on the table. For 
a plain waist and sleeves of ordinary size and how 
drafted on the lining, with every line and dot numbered 
or lettered and referred to in these directions ; you will 
see design A A. — See 8th page. 

11th. Place Front Chart with long straight 
edge one and a quarter inches from the selvage edge and 
high up on the lining and line along straight edge. See 
1 to 2. N. B. — Be careful to hold chart in place. 

12th. Neck Scale A, in which find your Bust 
Measure, dotting through all the holes in the line in up- 
ward curve. See 1 to 3. Keep chart in place. 

13th. Arm- Hole. — Dot through the holes at 
your Bust Measure in scales B C D E F. See 4, 5, 6, 7, 
8. Keep chart in place. 

141 h. Top of Darts. — Bear in mind always to 
dot through the holes at the right and left of your Bust 
Measure in scale G- at the time you do the neck and arm- 
hole, but you must not dot the bottom of darts then. 
See 9 and 10. Keep chart in place. The Top of 
Darts often appear too slanting when drafting 
Waists with small tapers; in such cases move the 
top of Darts forward to suit taste. 

15th. For the Side Seam.— Place the finger 
of your left hand at your Waist Measure in scale H, 
then follow out to the right in a straight line to your 
Bust Measure in scale I, dotting through the holes 
directly above and below your Bust Measure. See 11 
and 12. 



£< - — — * 

CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting. 5 

[Directions Continued.] 

16th. Remove the Chart.— Draw a straight 
line on lining between two dots last made extending the 
line above and below dots for extreme sizes. Draw 
curved line from dot to dot for neck. See 1 to 3. Draw 
curve from dot to dot for arm-hole. See 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 

17th. Length of Waist and &ide-Seam. 
— Place point J of Back Chart at the lowest dot in Arm- 
Hole, with scale edge to intersect the straight line. See 
11 to 12— at the figure indicating the length of your 
Waist and line along scale edge. See 8 to 13. 

18th. To Prove the Length of Front 
Waist measure from the highest point of neck down 
the lining the length of Front required, and make dot 
for waist line. See 3 to 2. Read 6th direction. 

19th. Bottom of Waist.— Replace Front 
Chart Square on the lining with straight edge at the 
line as at first, then move Chart Square up or down until 
Sloping Edge K is at the intersecting point at bottom of 
side seam — see 13 — with right hand hold Chart down at 
this point (while you move left side up or down to con- 
form to a measurement made down the front waist, if 
one has been taken) — see 2 — then draw line along edge 
from intersecting point to left edge. Keep chart in 
place. 

20th. Bottom of Bar ts.— With chart kept in 
same position, dot through hole L, also through three 
holes in scale M, directly under your taper number — | 
See L, M, N, O. For Taper Number, read 5th direction. 

21st. Top of Shoulder —Place at the upper 
neck dot on lining that point at the edge of chart in Scale 
N, which has your shoulder measure, having upper edge 
of chart at upper dot of arm-hole and line along edge. 
See 3 to 4 

22d. The Barts How to Mark Out- 
place point J Back Chart at upper left dot on lining 
with Dart Scale edge at lower left dot and line along 
Scale edge. See 9 to L. Turn-Over Chart, 
keeping point J at same dot w?th Scale Edge at the next 
dot to right and line down. See 9 to M. To Com- 
plete the Back Bart use the three remaining dots 
on lining. See 10 N. O. by the same method as before. 

23d. To Prepare the Waist Line for an 
Under Arm Dart place point J of Back Chart wrong side 
up at the crossing of the back line of back dart and the 



6 CornwelPs Improved Directions for Catting. 



i 



6 CornwelFs ] 

[Directions Continued] 
waist line, with Dart Scale edge at the intersecting point 
of side seam and draw curved line. See to 13. JM • B, 
An Under- Arm Dart about one-and- three-fourth 
inches wide is required in all close-fitting garments. The 
chart is so arranged that an Under- Arm dart of this width 
is thus made necessary. 

24th, To Draft Under Aim Dart.— Begin 
at the left lower dot in arm-hole (see 7) and line a 
straight edged Dart to curved waist line, and about 1% 
inches wide at waist line— see 14, 15 — and half way be- 
tween Back Dart and side seam. See to 13. 

£5th. To Shorten the Shoulder and 
Shape the Arm -Hole. — Place point E of the 
sleeve system on the shoulder seam at the required 
length for shoulder of dress, with upper end of sleeve 
at the left lower dot of Arm-hole, and draw line along 
edge. See 7 to 16. How to get this measurement see 
7th direction. 

TO CUT THE BACK WAIST. 

26th* Use the remainder of the lining still pinned 
together. Place the Back Chart high up on the lining 
with Scale Edge along the Folded Edge of lining. 

27th. Back of" Week — Dot through both holes 
in "Neck Scale 0." See 17, 18. 

28th. Arm- Hole.— Dot holes at your bust 
measure in Scales P, Q. R. See 19, 20, 21. 

29th. Waist Measure, Scale S.— Dot the 
holes directly above and below your waist measure in 
this sc tie. See S., S. 

30th. Remove Back Chart.— Draw a line 
on lining for back of neck. See 17, 18. Draw a curved 
line on lining for arm-hole. See 19, 20, 21. Draw 
straight line on lining between two dots. See S. to S. Ex- 
tending line above and below for extreme sizes. 

31st. Length of Waist and Side Seam. 
— Place point J at the lowest dot in arm-hole, with scale 
edge to intersect the straight line (see S. to S.) at the fig- 
ure indicating length of your waist, and line along scale 
edge. See 21 to 22. 

3£d. To Prove the Length of Back 
Waist. — Measure down from back of neck on lining, 
and make dot for waist line the length of back required. 
| See 17 to 23. Read 6th direction. 
« * 



;< — % 

Cornwell's Improved Directions for Cutting. 7 

[Directions Continued.'] 

33d. Bottom of Waist.— Draw straight line 
with edge of Back Chart square t > the left from point of 
intersection at 22 to folded edge of lining, striking the 
measurement made down the center of back, if one 
has been taken. See 22, 23. 

34th. Shoulder Seam.— Place point T of Back 
Chart at neck dot, with shoulder edge at upper dot of 
armhole on lining and line. See 18, 19. 

35th. For Seam in the Back.— One-quar- 
ter of an inch wide at the top and three-fourths of an 
inch wide at the waist line. Draw line along straight 
edge of Chart. See 17 to 23. 

36th. For Back Form.— Turn over Back 
Chart and place hole U at middle dot in arm-hole, with 
Back Form edge at the waist line, the required width to 
make side body to suit the style, and draw line. See 20 
to 24. To make a straighter curve move chart up higher. 

37th. To Shorten the Shoulder and 
Shape Back ol Arm-Hole.— Place point E of 
the Sleeve System at a point on the shoulder 
seam, See 25, to correspond with the front shoulder 
seam, with upper part of sleeve at lowest dot in arm- 
hole and line along edge. See 21 to 25. N. B.— The 
back shoulder should be one-half inch tne longest. In 
sewing together the shoulder seams STRETCH the front 
in the hollow to match the back. 

SPECIAL SLEEVE NOTICE. 

38th. For Cutting a Perfect Fitting 
Sleeve. — See full and complete directions on the Sleeve 
System itself, and for design see black lines of both 
upper and under sleeve. 

39 th. For a Tight-Fitting French 
Sleeve.— See long dotted lines on design. First mark 
out on lining with Sleeve System in the usual way the size 
of sleeve required. Then make first dot at bend of arm 
about. % inc i on the lining from edge. Place point A 
of System at 2 with inner edge at one and line 2 to 1 ; 
then swing System down enough to line 1 to 3. Turn 
over System and place point A at 4 with inner edge at 
point of elbow, and line 4 to 5. For under part of sleeve 
use the same method as before, and make sleeve smaller 
at the wrist to suit taste. 

For Sleeve gathered hi?h at top add about one 
inch. See round dotted line over 6. See Page 10. 



*8 CormrelTsJmproTe4 Directions tor Cutting 



—SB 




CORNWALL'S IMPROVED 9 

SELF-FITTING 

System for Cutting Sleeves 

Of all sizes, for both Children and Adults, and works 
perfectly in connection with the Cornwall's Self- 
Fitting Chart in Dress-Cutting. 



DIBECTIOiTS. 

1st. The figures in the scales "C," "D," "F," and 
"G," in this system, correspond with the Bust Measures 
as used in the Chart in cutting the dress. The same 
figures must be used in this system in cutting the sleeve 
to fit the dress. 

2d. Take the length of Sleeve from the back of 
armhole, over the elbow to the wrist, with the arm bent. 

3d. For upper part of Sleeve, place points A and B 
along selvage edge of cloth, dotting at "A" on the cl^th 
as the point of beginning, then line along Scale edge 
from "A" toward "B," the length of sleeve required. 
Hold System in place. 

4th. Dot holes at bust measure, in Scales C and D. 
Remove System, 

5 til. Place point "E" at the dot on cloth made in 
Scale "C," with the outer edge at the dot made in Scale 
U D" then draw a line from point "E," along Senile edge 
to the length of sleeve required. 

Qth. Remove the System, and draw a straight line 
across to the wrist. 

7th, Place that point in Scale "F^J' indicating the 
bust measure at the dot on cloth made in Scale "C," with 
the oval edge at point "A," then line along oval edge 
from point "A" to dot. 

8th. For under part of Sleeve, place points "A" and 
"B" along the selvage edge of cloth, then proceed as 
with the upper part of Sleeve, except us ng numbers in 
scale "G," in place of scale "C," and to draft the armhole 
end use the curved edge at the right hand in place of the 
oval end at the 1 ft hand. 

9th. Cut the Sleeve out on the lines. Make no al- 
lowance for seams. In basting the Sleeve always com- 
Imence at the top. The Sleeve should be so put in the 
dress that the outside seam will come directly over the 
point of the elbow when bent. 
#- -* 



10 A Few of the Many Patterns Cut by 

Cornwall's Improved Sleeve System. 

For Full Directions see Sleeve System. 

First mark out with 
Sleeve System, u^ual 
way, the size required. 
See black lines for 
Common Sleeve. To 
change this to a tight 
fitting English t leeve, 
simply make under 
part smaller at wrist 
to suit taste. See star- 
dolted line 7 to 4. To 
make a tight French 
sleeve make dot one 
at bend of arm about 
J^ inch on cloth from 
inner ( dge ; place point 
A of Sleeve System at 
2, Viith inner edge at 
one, and line 2 to 1 ; 
with left hand hold 
bystem down at one, 
and swing round and 
line 1 to 3. Turn over 
System and place point 
A" at 4, with inner edge 
at po.nt of elbow and 
line 4 to 5 . For under 
part of sleeve make 
use of same method as 
before. The long dot- 
ted lines represent 
French Sleeve. 

For sleeves with 
high shoulders make 
higher in proportion 
to the shortness of 
dress shoulder. For 
shape see dotted lines 
above 6, and where to 
gather, see to 0. 



■* 




■* 



CornwelPs Improved Directions for Cutting. 11 
Supplementary Instructions tor Using 

Cornwell's Self-Fitting Dress Cutting Systems, 

And for Taking' the Measures, 
Cutting the Cloth, 

And Making up the Garment, 

So that the newest dressmaker need not err in making 
a perfect fitting dress without refitting, if she will but 
study well the instructions in this book. 

BE A.B Iff MIND that Correct Measure- 
ments of the person to be fitted are as necessary in 
the use of this Chart and Sleeve System as to 
a tailor in cutting a coat, therefore be careful and 
put down on paper the measurements taken. 

BUST MEASURE.— In taking this yon 
will stand behind the person and bring the 
tape around over the largest portion of the bust, and 
across the shoulder blades, at the back. (See cut of 
measurements.) Avoid drawing the tape too tight. 
When the bust measure comes between two sizes, take 
the largest one. Never measure over a loose 
dress. Should you find, in making up the dress, that 
the bust is either too large or too small, it is evidence 
that this measurement was wrongly , taken. 

SHOULDER ME%SURE.-Stand at 
side of person, and if there seems to be any differ- 
ence in the shoulders, measure both of them. (See cut 
of measurements) This hollow is located just above 
the upper edge of the clavical bone, where it joins the 
shoulder blade and collar bone. Its location is regular, 
and its distance from the side of ihe neck corresponds 
exactly to the slope of the shoulder, and varies in length 
in different forms from 1% to 5% inches. The general 
size of the person governs little, if any, the distance this 
hollow is from the neck. With high and square shoul- 
ders this clavical bone or cap of the shoulder lies high r 
and flatter on top, and nearer the neck, making a shorter 
measurement. With sloping shoulders this bone turns 
over more, making, of course, a longer measurement. 

THE TAPEB M « ASUBEMJBNTS, or 
Darts, are obtained by subtraction. 

For illus rati >n— If a given Bust measures 38 inches 
and the waist 34 inches, the difference, 14 inches, will 
be the exact amount which must be taken up in the darts. 

% * 



12 Cornweii's Improved Directions for Catting. 

[Directions Continued] 

NECK SIZE.— -The trimming down necessary to 
conform to this measure should always be done in front. 
Should you find, on trying on the dress, any wrinkles 
about the side or front of the neck, make up your mind 
that you have failed to trim out enough cloth in front. 

BACK FORMS.»In trimming the cloth 
to conform to the back waist lining, after being basted 
together, allow three-fourths of an inch more of the out- 
side at the side seams, half way up the arm-hole, and at 
the bottom of the waist. This will provide for the welt 
in the forms on the back. Baste through the cloth and 
lining on the line marked out for the back forms, then 
fold up enough of the outside to form the welt, and 
baste through both the second time, after which stitch 
through the whole with a sewing machine. 

MARK THE LINES of the garment 
through boih thicknesses of cloth with a marking 
wheel, or crease them between the thumb and finger. 

N. B.— In cutting the cloth allow \% inches 
for turning under in front. Allow three-fourths of an 
inch for all seams except in the neck and arm-hole. Sew 
up the seams on the lines. 

In sewing up the shoulder seams stretch the front 
cloth in the hollow to match the back. Turn the shoul- 
der and side seams forward and the darts back. 

SKIRTS.— In seaming up a skirt, always match 
a biased and a straight edge together. 

GARIBALDIS.-For cutting this gar- 
ment, add. two sizes to the bust measure in 
"Row F M in the front Chart and "R» in the back Chart. 
Gather into the front waist what would otherwise 
be used in darts, adding to the bottom of the back one- 
third more cloth than for a tight waist, the extra 
width to be used for gathering in. 

This rule of adding two sizes to the bust measure in 
"Rows F and R" holds good in cutting loose waists, 
sacks, coats, night-dresses and wrappers. 

IN CUTTING VELVET GARMENTS, 
unlike other goods, the nap must run up. 

Velvet and other Wadded Cloaks require 
an addition of two sizes to the ordinary bust measure in 
u Row F," on the front Chart, and five sizes in "Row R," 
on the back Chart. Keep all other measures without 
change. Make the desired curve in arm-hole. 
i_ m 



i 



Cornweirs Improved Directions for Cutting. 13 

OPEN BACKS.— To cut the front, let the long 
straight edge of the front chart project one-half inch 
over the left selvedge of the cloth, then proceed in the 
usual way. To cut the back, place the straight edge of 
the back chart on the cloth, one inch back from the 
selvedge, drawing a line there on the cloth (this is for 
turning under), then move another inch further from the 
edge, drawing another line (this is for lapping), after 
which proceed in the usual way. 

LOW-NECKED DRESSES -First draft 
out on paper a plain waist from which ihe pat- 
terns may be cut. Place hole "U" of back Chart on the 
front shoulder-seam at "1," two inches up from the 
point of the shoulder, and mark along the edge to '*£," 
a point five and one-half inches below the neck. 
Then place hole "U" on the back shoulder-seam at 3, 
two inches up from the point of shoulder, and mark 
along the edge to 4, eight inches below the neck. 

YOKES. — As the following are loose fitting, al- 
lowance must be made (see "Garibaldis") in cutting 
the pattern for a chemise or a night-dress yoke. For the 
upper line of these yokes use the line of the "Low-neck 
Dress," as directed above. To get the lower Hne, invert 
the back Chart and place hole "U" at the fourth dot in 
the front arm hole at 5, and mark along the edge to 0, 
a point nine inches down from the neck. Then place 
hole "U" at middle dot in back arm hole at 7, and "mark 
along edge to 8, a^ point 1£ inches below neck* The 
figures in above directions refer to following cut. 



T 



O-K-E'S 




Shoulder Seams.-Special care should be 
taken that the front waist, which must be three-eighths 
of an inch shorter at the shoulder seam than the back, be 



* 



g 8 

14 SELF-FITTINQ CHART. 

stretched in the hollow sufficiently to match the^ back. 
N. B. — The sewing should always be exactly on the lines. 

BACK DABT.— Be particular to stretch the back 
line of the back dart when sewing it together. 

UNDEB ABM SEAM.— Be particular to draft 
the Front cloth one quarter of an inch shorter than the 
back, and in sewing together this seam stretch the front 
to match the back. 

FIT OUTSIDE WAISTS TO TIGHT LININGS — 
Sew up the darts in the lining. Begin to baste the outside 
cloth on at the neck, and continue along the shoulder arm- 
hole and side seam. Then gather in the fullness of the 
bottom between the back dart and the front edge. Take 
pains to shorten the cloth one inch in front, running back 
and out as far as gathered. Baste together both edges even 
at the bottom. In hasting on the outside to the 
back, begin at the neck and continue along the shoulder 
and down the side seam. Gather in the fullness of the 
bottom, (which, like the bottom of a Garibaldi, is one- 
third wider than a plain waist,) except 1J inches at each 
edge. Baste together both edges even at the bottom. 

LAP IN FBONT.— The lap down the front of 
the waist on the buttonhole side must be turned under. 
The other side must have a plait quarter of an inch 
wide turned toward the front, and one and one-half 
inches back from the edge. This is a stay tq sew the buttons on. 

SEWING ON DBESS BEAID.— First shrink the 
hraid 9 then hold it loosely when sewing it on. 

STEETCH SKIKT OF BASQUE.— That portion 
which passes over the hip should be stretched to 

conform to the swell of the hip. 

HOOK AND EYE PIECES.— Should be made about 
three inches long, sewing them in with the front dart, one 
inch above the bottom of the waist. 

WHALEBONES— Should be one inch shorter at the top 
than the darts. 

CLIP THE SEAMS.— In tight-fitting Basques and 
Corsage Waists, clip the seams at the bottom of the waist 
to allow the skirt to spring out over the hips and prevent 
drawing. 

TO FINISH THE INSIDE OF THE WAIST.— Ar- 
tistically turn the side and shoulder seams forward and the 
darts back, trim even the raw edges of all the seams, then 
turn them in and stitch them through with a sewing machine. 

%—-"-' ' a 



►p $\ 

Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting* 15 

To Cut a Dolman Paper Pattern. 

REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN P. 

Take the measurements of the person and set them 
down on paper as follows : 

lat. Bust measure. 

£d. Shoulder measure. 

3d. A measurement from a point on shoulder seam 
about one inch from sleeve clown in front to bend in arm 
with hand held in position just below waist line in front. 

4th. A measurement from neck band at throat down 
to wrist with hand held in position just below waist line. 

5th. A measurement from the bend in arm held in 
position, toward the wrist the length of sleeve required. 

6 th. A measurement from the back of neck down to 
waist line, thence down full length of dolman required. 

7th. A measurement from the center of back at waist 
line, the width across back piece required ; usually about 
four inches. 

8th. A measurement from the center of oust in front 
straight around over fullest part of arm to center of back 
with arm in position in front. This measurement deter- 
mines the size of sleeve. 

9ih. A measurement around the- body over fullest 
part of hips, to which add four inches for fullness. 

lOth. For the width of bottom of dolman add four- 
teen inches more to hip measure. N. B. Use one-half 
this measurement for pattern. 

Prepare to Draft the Pattern. 

Take two sheets of heavy paper, say 24 by 86 inches, 
paste them together, making large sheet 36 by 48 square. 
Place the front chart on left edge of shortest side of 
paper and about six inches down from corner, hold chart 
in position, then place back chart wrong side up partially 
over it with straight edge along upper edge of paper at 
right angles with front chart. Now move them into po- 
sition so that with a pencil you can mark through both 
charts together and at same bust measure in scale P in 
back chart and scale "B" in front chart. Be careful to 
keep the straight edges of chart at edges of paper ; with 
charts held in position, dot out and draft necks in both 
front and back in usual way, keeping back chart wrong 
side up ; remove chart. 

* lil 



* 



le 



Cornwell's Improved System of Cu 



-n 
73 
O 



\ 







The object of this INSTRUCTION BOOK «• 

solely for the benefit of those using the 
cornwell system of cutting, and none 
others. So all persons experimenting with 
cheap contrivances for cutting are hereby 
warned not to profit or use, in any way, 
the rights and privileges of this invention, 
under penalty of law. Willett Cornwell. 



*■ 



IS CornwelFs Improved System of Cutting. 

{Dolman Continued.'] 

As you proceed to draft; make dots and letters 
on pattern to correspond to design F, dot "A" being first 
dot made in pattern. 

Make dots "B" and "C" about one inch up the shoulder 
lines from dot A. 

T# Draft the 3rd. Measurement— Meas- 
ure down from B to D length required, placing dot D 
same distance from left edge of paper as dot B. 

Place back chart (wrong side up) with hole U at dot B, 
and line along curved edge to dot D. 

To Dral"& the 4th. Measurement— Make 
dot E at throat, then measure down edge of paper to dot 
F, length required. 

To Draft the 5th. Measurement— Place 
hole U back chart at dot D with rounding edge at dot F 
then line from D to G, length of sleeve required. From 
dot G you can make different styles desired. 

To Draft the 6th. Measurement— Use the 
long scale edge of back chart to line by and to meas- 
ure length required from edge of paper at back of neck 
near H down to dot I, which dot must be one inch in 
from edge of paper ; from this dot continue a straight 
line down sloping out to edge of paper at J the length 
of dolman required. 

To Draft the 7th. Measurement— Make 
dot K at waist line square out on paper from I width of 
back piece required, make dot L square out on paper 
from dot J, making bottom about double the width as 
from I to K. 

To Complete Drafting of Back Piece- 
Place hole U back chart at dot C, with rounding edge at 
dot K and line along edge C to K, then continue down 
straight line to bottom at L. 

To Draft the 8th. Measurement— With 
tape line measure (at locations indicated on cut) the width 
of the back piece from one to two together with the 
width of the front piece three to four, adding together 
these measures, and continue on the full length required 
to locate dot 5. N. B. Dot 5 should appear at the same 
angle and distance from dot A as 4, which position must 
be half way between B and D. 

To Draft the Sleeve— Place back chart hole U 
at dot C with curved edge at dot 5, then line from dot C 
down full length of chart. Place straight edge of back 
£ # 



(ft M 

CornwelPs Improred System of Cutting. 19 

Dolman Continued. 
chart two inches up on line last drawn, and continue 
straight line down along edge of chart length of sleeve 
required. 

To Locate and Draft the 9th, Meas- 
urement — With a tape line measure the width of the 
back piece I to K, with this addition continue the meas- 
urement square out on the paper from dot F and make 
dot M at the width required. Place back chart (wrong 
side up) with hole U at dot D with rounding edge at dot 
M and line D to M. 

To Draft the lOth.Measurement— With tape 
line measure width of back piece, L to J, with this addi- 
tion continue the measurement of bottom of front to N 
the width required. Now make dot N the same distance 
from dot M, as K is from L, draw a straight line from 
M to N, thence out to O, the shape of bottom required. 

Line Q represents the under part of sleeve. 

To form the different styles of sleeves as shown dv 
lines in cut, use the straight and curved edges of chart to 
draft by. 

To Draft Capes and Circulars— Measure 
the person from the back of neck down, length required, 
then proceed the same as for dolman to the completion of 
shoulder seams. Make dot P at the neck in the pattern. 
Hold one end of tape line with left hand on dot P, with 
right hold pencil on measure at the length of garment 
required, and swing line round from back to front for 
the bottom of circle. 

SIjEISVE.— The ordinary coat sleeve for a dress 
should be about one and one-half inches larger at 
the top than the arm-hole, thus providing for a slight 
fullness over the shoulders. The upper portion of the 
sleeve should be about two inchrs wider at the arm-hole 
than th^ under portion, gradually sloping to ooe inch 
wider at the wrist. Before putting in a sleeve with high 
shoulder gather the top of i< with a fine stitch. 

In cutting by our Sleeve System cut the cloth out on 
th" Hues, making no -'dlowance for seams. In basting 
the sleeves always commence at the top. The sleeve 
sho ild be s put in the arm-hole that the outside seam 
will come r directly over the point of the elbow when bent. 
For a French, English or common sleeve see design. 



|14"— *" '' — ^.wim mmmmmmmmmmmmmammmmammmmmmmKmmmimmmmmmmmmmmm^^^i 



20 CornwelPs Improved System of Cutting. 
DESIGNS A. -AJSTID IB 

Represent FRONT and BACK of either 

BASQUE, POLONAISE, OR WRAPPER. 

For these Garments take the Bust Meas- 
ure, Shoulder, Waist, length of Waist, and 
length of Skirt, and other necessary measures in 
the usual way. 

TO CUT THE FRONT. 

REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN A. 

Draft Neck, Shoulder, Arm-hole, Under Arm 
Dart, Top of Darts, and Length of Waist in the 
usual way. See main directions for plain waist. 

Continue the lap line down in front the length of 
garment required. 

To Prepare the Waist Liine for the under 
arm dart, place point J back chart wrong side up at 2 
and line along scale edge to 3. 

To I>raft Under Arm Dart begin at dot 4 
three-fourths inch to left of lower dot in arm hole and 
line a straight edged dart to curved waist line and about 
one and three-fourths inches wide at 5 and 6 half way 
between 2 and 3. Continue this dart straight down six 
or eight inches to point 7. 

To Continue Down Side Seam of Skirt 
place straight scale edge of chart two inches up on side 
seam above 3 and make dot at 6 at edge of scale, remove 
chart and make dot 8 one-half inch to right of last dot 
made and line straight 3 to 8. To continue skirt 
down from 8, place hole U back chart at 6 with round- 
ing edge at 8 and line from 8 to point J, remove chart 
and continue line with same outward slope, shape and 
length of skirt required. If full draping is required 
continue down straight line from 8. 

To Continue Two Front Darts-r-Make dots 9 
and 10 from thirteen to fifteen inches direcfly below 
center of each dart and to these dots run the darts. 

£ * 



CornwelPs Improyed System of Cutting. 21 



[Basque, Polona'se or Wrapper Continued.^ 

fl m B.— It can be readily seen that our way of locating 
the side*seam is so proportioned that it comes down over 
back of the hip, thereby producing an elegant fit and 
narrow back so much admired. 

When One Dart is Required in place of two 
in front, make dot in center of each dart at waist line 
and dots between two top and two bottom points and 
line out one dart by these four dots, in which event the 
under arm dart must be located half-way between 
front dart and side seam. 

A Basque Skirt; is represented by dotted lines in 
both front and back designs. 

A Princess Dress is represented in design 13 by 
cross dotted lines. 

TO CUT THE BACK. 

REFERENCE TO DESIGN B. 

To Allow for Plaits place back chart square on 
cloth or paper four or six inches, on from left edge and 
draft neck, bust, shoulder, length of waist and side body 
in usual way. Draw line twelve from arm hole the 
length of chart exactly parallel with left edge of ma- 

6 To Get Flare of Hip measure and line 13 to 14 
same as length of waist, then dot 16 half way between 14 
and 15, draw line from 16 up to junction of lines at 17. 

The Plaits may be higher or lower by moving 
lines a a to suit style. . 

To Braft Side-body line square out tonght 
from left edge through center of arm hole 18 to 19. lo 
do this correctly use the full length and the square end 
of chart as try square and rule. Place straight-edge of 
chart on line 12 with the bust measure in scale Q on line 
18 19. Then dot through bust measure in scales CJ and 
K and at the waist measure in scale S. Remove chart. 
Care must be taken to have line 20 parallel with line U. 

Draft out side body b b same size as one in back piece 
except making the necessary flare to skirt by placing 
straight edge of chart two inches up the line above 21 
and continue same outward slope down to plait line. 

Continue »kirt down the length required from 
22, either straight or sloping to suit style. 



& 



-ki 



8* 



28 ys^ornwell's Improved System of Cutting, 

POLONAISE 

BASQUE & 

WRAPPER 




* 







"WILLETT CORNWELL, 
NO. 1229 WABASH AV. 
CHICAGO, -*- ILLINOIS. 



RAND.MC NALUY A CO.jENGR'S.CHICAQO. 



I 



► <: 



CornweHXJmproved System of Cutting, 23 f 

POLONAISE 
BASQUE & 



Back 



WRAPPER 




s © 

Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 25 

To Draft this Walking Goat, double-breasted, 
place front chart on material 3 inches to the right 
from left edge, and proceed as in basque, except must 
add one size to the bust measure. 

In cutting the material, care 
must be taken tliat the grain of\ 
the cloth runs precisely the same 
as indicated by the fine lines in 
the cuts. 




* 



26 Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 

Ladies 9 , Misses' and Children's Perfect 
Fitting Drawers. 

REFERENCE WILL BE TO DESIGN G. 

lfct. Take measure from waist band, outside of leg to 
just below the knee. 

2d. Take measure around the body over the fullest 
part of hip, to which measurement add for fullness eight 
inches for large sizes, six inches for medium, and four 
inches for small. 

Jf . B. — Only use one-quarter this entire measurement 
in drafting the garment. 

3d. Take measure around the waist to which meas- 
ure add for gathers or darts eight inches for large sizes, 
six inches for medium, and four inches for small. 

JT, B. — Only use one-quarter this entire measurement 
in drafting the garment. 

4 til. Take the measure around the knee to which 
measure add for fullness from two to rive inches to suit. 

TO DRAFT THE DRAWERS. 

fold your material lengthwise, keeping in mind you 
are cutting the back and front of one leg together ; this 
when cut and opened out, forms a perfect pattern. 

To Draft First Measurement,- measure 
from dot A to dot B length required. 

To Draft Second Measurement,— make dot 
C half-way between A and B then measure square across 
at right angles from dot C to dot D the (3^) width re- 
quired. 

To Draft Third Measurement for the 
Front Part, — measure square out to right from dot B 
the (M) width required to dot E, draw straight line B to 
E. Then place hole U at dot D with curved edge at dot 
E, and line E to D. 

For Back Part — use straight edge of chart to draw 
line from D to E, and continue line up to dot F, 2 or 3 
inches from dot E. Draw straight line B to F. 

To Draft Fourth Measurement— make dot 
G at right of A across bottom of leg, the width required. 
Place hole U (wrong side up) at dot D, and line down 
curved edge to dot G. 

These rules may be applied in cutting boys* pants by 
reducing the proportions. 



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Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting, 2 ? 


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RAND,MCNALLY & CO.- ENSR'S.CHICACO. „■« % 



88 sq 

28 Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting 




POSTILLION or 
RIDING HABIT. 



To cut this garment proceed as 
with Basque, making Front Skirt say 
4 to 6 incbes long, to suit taste. 
Make Back Skirt say from 10 to 18 
inches, or longer if desire d. To 
shape Skirt of Side-body place hole 
k U" Back Chart, (wrong side up) at 
point a on side seam the required 
length from waist line, with Back 
form Edge at b the required length 
of Skirt and line a to b. The Lap in 
Side-body c t > d should be about V4 
inches wide for buttons or may be 
omitted and sewed up if desired. 

B^"IN" CUTTING THE CLOTH 
allow % of an inch for all seams, ex- 
cept in the neck and arm-hole. Sew 
up the seams on the lines. In sewing 
up the should r seams, stretch the 
front cloth in the hollow to match 
the back. Turn the shoulder and side 
seams forward, and the dartsjback. 

N. B.— In cutting the Side-body care 
must be taken that the grain of the 
clo h in the curved part runs the 
same as in the back. 

*— = 




>*■ 



.Cornwell's Improved System of Cutting. 29 < 
F E 




SACK 



Jik 



Ladies', Misses' and Children'! 

PERF ECT FIT TING. 

To Cut Sack Chemise. — Pro- 
ceed with the front chart as in 
plain waist, dotting out the required 
bust measures — leaving out the darts 
and lining only the shoulder and 
under-arm seams. 

Place dart scale of chart at last dot in 
arm-hole, with fig. 3 at dot A and fig. 6 
X% inches in from under-arm line at dot 
B; then line only from A to point J, dot 
C; this forms under-part of sleeve. 

Place hole U (wrong side up) at dot E, 
two inches up shoulder line from dot D; 
line along edge, E to C ; make dot F square 
out to left 2 inches from dot E and line 
EtoF. 

Place hole U at dot F and line out neck 
by curved edge to G, as low as required. To 
form style of yoke desired, use curved and 
straight edges of chart to line by. 

7AKb,M« HALLY & CO.,ENGR'S,CHICAGO. 



80 Comwell's. Improved System of Cutting. 

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To Cut a True Bias. 



31 



* 



Place the selvedge of the cloth along the edge next to 
you on the table. With the right hand fold over point 
A to B, and cut through the fold at C C, removing the 
half square piece not to be used. Place the square end 
of back chart at D, and measure off along scale, square 
out at right angles from edge of cloth, the width of biases 
required, repeating like measurement from E, then line 
from edge to edge through these dots on which to cut off 
your bias pieces. 

SELVEDGE. 




m- 



SELVEDGE. 

AGENTS' GREETING. 

By sending you this new circular we take pleasure 
once more in reminding you of the advance steps we 
are continually making in the art of dress-cutting. It 
is less than 3 year ago that our wonderful sleeve sys- 
tem first made its appearance, since which time more 
than 30,000 have been sold. Our self -fitting chart is 
growing no less appreciated, and doubling up in sales 
every year. 

"We have in view for the future many inventions 
which we hope to complete, to the benefit of every owner 
of a Cornwell Self-fitting System. Few desires are 
greater in our hearts than to know the name, address 
and occupation of each and every one of our chart pur- 
chasers, that we may send something of value to them 
from time to time. 

We will always be pleased to reply to any question 
sent us concerning cutting, new styles, material, etc., 
etc. Yours most respectfully, Willett Cornwell. 



* 



*- 



CUT OF WIE"" 

4 ^- i Ti 



* 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




To Make Sales Agents will Give this Book Freely. 

Any person desiring this book of USEFUL IN. 
STBUCTIONS who will address, 

WILLETT CORNWELL, 

1229 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO, ILL., 

giving their address and occupation plainly written will 
receive the same by return of mail free. 



